The All Black Vogue
by Risa Dickens
Serah Marie from Worn talks a lot about the bizarre but undeniable pattern she sees in photos submitted to her alternative indie fashion zine. They are almost unrelentlessly photos of skinny white girls, and it’s a problem. Vogue’s step to try and right the scales is a brand new all black issue. Though this doesn’t address body image it does make a nice change, though I wonder about fetishizing race with a theme issue; and how many black women will recognize themselves and feel empowered by these powdered, narrow faces; and if this nod might make it easy for the Vogue editors to go back to their usual patterns, patting themselves on the back for their one-off effort… Am I too cynical? Here’s a preview of the shots from Fashion Indie, let me know what you think.
Listen to this article
Published on: June 24th, 2008
Terms Used: black, body image, fashion, indie, photos, race, vogue, white
About: Risa Dickens
Risa co-founded Indyish with Elran Oded.
Aside from experimenting with these monstrous/sexy formations, producing Indyish events and developing new and existing Indyish endeavors, and trying to figure out how to do it armed[...]
Browse Indyish Content:
Use the tabs above to navigate between Featured Blog Columns, Product Categories, Popular Tags, and Recent Comments.
I like what Jessica wrote on Feministing:
“By creating a “black issue,” Vogue Italia is positioning a “normal” issue as white. Not to mention, diversity isn’t a black-white thing. This issue of the magazine makes women of color who aren’t black invisible.”
As a separate issue of the magazine, the All-Black Vogue makes race a separate issue from “normal” fashion concerns.
Someone can choose not to buy that particular issue, rather than having to face a more radical shift to include women of colour in each issue, in the industry, and in social conceptions of beauty.
But a hugely powerful magazine like Vogue could be a good place to highlight the lack of inclusion. I haven’t seen the magazine yet, but I think if it engages with the reasons why there is a need for this special issue, well than that seems worthwhile to me.
Posted on June 24th, 2008 at 1:46 pm [permalink]
First off, Italian Vouge is not one of the magazines often criticized for white-washing their photo shoots. Though hardly an even playing field, it is much more racially diverse than most fashion publications. Though I’m not in the habit of defending the Vouge Empire, I am quite pleased with this issue.
I have produced 6 issues of Worn. I let whoever wants to to send me photos for publication. There are no criteria as to what kind of models Worn expects, except encouragement for something non-traditional. Since I started Worn in 2005, I have never received a SINGLE un-solicited photo shoot that anything other than a young (under 30), very thin, white female subject. NEVER. I have gotten into arguments with stylists when I insist that they use any race except Caucasian, or any girl over size 6. And this is an indie mag out of Montreal.
So why do I champion this issue? Because it’s necessary. It needs to happen to raise questions and concerns over why there even needs to be a black issue in the first place. Why I ever needed to put into affect an outright ban on skinny white girls until I feel Worn is more balanced. I don’t see this as that different from what is going on at Italian Vouge, and Steven Meisel says the same.
I hear objections that say that this is positioning the black model outside the norm. Well, yeah. Here’s the thing though: it is outside the norm. Already been positioned. From the tone of the issue, they are trying to change that, not placate it.
No, it does not deal with other races or other sizes, but we don’t need to deal with every single ignored beautiful girl in one issue. This one celebrates the black woman. I hope to see more like it.
Posted on June 24th, 2008 at 9:19 pm [permalink]
It is fabulous that the July issue is the all black issue, black models need just as much coverage as everyone else! Although Vogue is not the major arbiter of equality, but at least it is a step in the right direction. If you guys love women of color in fashion then you guys would love Bianca! I’m currently working with Toyota and I’m really hyped when it comes to spreading the word about the new interactive If Looks Could Kill webisodes. They follow an aspiring fashion assistant who is a prime example of a woman whos’ got it going on. I’m talking the dream job, man who’s got all the ladies drooling, and the spice to keep it all together. Think James Bond meets Sanaa Lathan in Something New.
You’ll have to see what I’m talking about. I can’t wait to read your thoughts on the first episode so we can chit-chat abut what’s really going on. Don’t be surprised when you find yourself being reeled in like bait. That will make two of us!
I hope I didn’t overstep my bounds by directly contacting you. After viewing your blog and seeing how hip to the game you are when it comes to what’s hot and current, I figured this would be something that would catch your interest.
Looking forward to the girl talk!
Best,
Gabrielle Thorn
Gabrielle.thorn@gmail.com
ILCK Ambassador
Posted on June 30th, 2008 at 6:06 pm [permalink]
Thay are also talking about this on YouTube @ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgsZw9emtNo
Posted on July 7th, 2008 at 9:16 pm [permalink]
Is this all black issue (which it is not actually - the cover and the back section feature black models and famous women) only avaliable in Italian. There are some lovely pictures but as I don’t speak or read Italian I was unable to read any of the text!
Posted on July 11th, 2008 at 8:06 am [permalink]